Bago or Pegu

Bago, Pegu, Myanmar, Burma, Birma, Bago, Pegu, pagoda, stupas, Bago River,
Gulf of Martaban, hintha bird, Thaton, suvannabhumi, golden land, Mon, King 

At the entrance to Bago coming from Yangon a idyllic Monastery right in the center of a small lake catches the eye

In 1635, King Thalun of the Second Myanmar Empire transferred the capital from Bago Pegu to Inwa, near Mandalay. Bago harbor had become so shallow by that time, that merchant vessels were no longer able to dock. During its ‘golden era’, Bago’s Hamsawaddy Dynasty produced great rulers such as King Razadarit (1385- 1425), Queen Shinsabu (1453-1472) and King Dhammazedi (1472-1492). These rulers of Bago Pegu and similar others have earned prestigious and beloved niches in the history and hearts of the country and its people, not only by their wise and just regimes, but also by the many sacred monuments that they left for posterity.

In 1740, after some years of submitting to the Taungoo Dynasty, the Mons were able to re-establish Bago as their capital. But King Alaungpaya completely sacked and ruined Bago Pegu in 1747. King Bodawpaya (1782-1819) rebuilt the city to some extend but Bago Pegu lost her importance as a seaport when it was cut off from the sea when the Bago River changed its course. After this the Bago Pegu has never been able to regain its former splendor and prominence.

One of the most venerated Pagoda in Myanmar is Bago's Shwemadaw Pagoda,

Bago's Shwemadaw Pagoda              Bago Shwemadaw Pagoda Entrance Hall

situated on the north side of the railway station and is visible for miles around. The style is similar but less grand than that of the Shwedagon Pagoda although the Shwemadaw is 16 meters higher than the former.

The history of this pagoda follows the story of two merchant brothers, Sulatharla and Mahatharla. The brothers had an opportunity to worship Lord Gaudama Buddha during a visit to Yarzagyo town on a trading mission. In return for their offering the Buddha gave them two sacred strands of hair. These were enclosed in a golden gasket, brought back to Myanmar and enshrined in Dozaungtu town (Zaungtu).
 
The brothers told King Manadaleik of Thaton who went to pay obeisance and worship the relics the same year, 361 BC. In 365 BC, King Mandaleik, under the direction of Thagyamin, King of gods, found Thudathana Hill and as preordained by Buddha, enshrined the two sacred hairs in a stupa 60 feet in height and 30 feet wide. Enshrined with the hairs were valuables donated by Thagyamin, King Mandaleik, Arahats (saints), the Queen and the two merchant brothers.

A pagoda, 75 feet high and 375 feet in circumference, was built over the stupa in 367 BC. The original Mon name was Kyaik-Mu-Tar Kyaik meaning pagoda, Mu, edge or periphery and Tar, positioned. The words later became “Mu-Taw”, then “Maw-Daw” and finally the name became Shwemawdaw.

Bago Shwemadaw Pagoda Yard inside Pagoda Platform

Over the centuries the pagoda was embellished and enlarged many times, first by King Thamala in 725 AD, who raised its height to 81 feet; then by King Wimala in 740 who increased the height to 88 feet. In 982, one of Buddhas tooth relics was added by King Anuyama, and another sacred tooth relic was enshrined by King Razadarity in 1385. In 1492, King Banyarrun donated a hti or umbrella for the pagoda. King Bodawpaya raised the height of the pagoda to 297 feet and donated a new hti in 1789. The Shwemawdaw Pagoda has been seriously damaged by five earthquakes. The “banana bud” of this pagoda which toppled together with many other parts in the 1917

earthquake, can still be seen at the base of the pagoda embedded in the new concrete work of the rebuilt and renovated shrine, a solemn reminder of the havoc natural calamities can wreak on man-made edifices.

The last and most devastating quake struck in 1930 and left only the earth mound base undisturbed. Restoration and renovation work began in 1952 and was completed in 1954 in a style somewhat different than the original. Four zaungdans or covered stairways leading to the pagoda each guarded by a large white chinthes with a sitting Buddha in the mouth. There are paintings showing the damage done by the 1930 quake on some stairways, a museum containing wood and bronze Buddha figures and relics saved from the catastrophe and a hall featuring photos of the restoration work. The West Zaungdan is the most popular among pilgrims and devotees.

Hinthsgone Hill: descending the eastern steps of the Shwemawdaw Pagoda, the visitor can walk under a covered walk-way through huts and small houses where typical Myanmar suburban community life can be observed. After ascending the hill beyond, the visitor comes to a ruined pagoda built by the hermit U Khanti, who is also known for the construction of pagodas on Mandalay Hill.

From this derelict hillside pagoda one can look down on Bago Town and its surrounding plain. A flight of steps takes one to a big rest-house-like temple. It is open-sided with a corrugated iron roof and a clear view of Bago and the Gulf of Martaban can be enjoyed from the brick seats which line the walls.

Vanished from Yangon over three decade ago for reasons only known to the authorities, these three-wheelers constitute an integral part of the transportation system in Bago Pegu and similar towns, being relatively convenient, efficient and economical compared to other modes of travel. Besides the driver, ten

Bago three-wheelers transportation in Myanmar                     Bago Myanmar lets go green Kyoto calling the coach

seated adult passengers plus two or more, under-10 children, in addition to the conductor standing at the back, a luggage rack on the roof seldom empty. A three-wheeler can carry all these and still make its to wherever its headed for. Like the majority of public motor vehicles plying the roads, our small and frail-looking three-wheeler is capable of carrying loads far in excess of its intended capacity. Sometimes I think Myanmar is much further developed than all this high tech countries like Germany, Britain, USA etc. The "green" philosophy their tells us all kind of funny and not the funny stuff to avoid greenhouse gas, obviously the Myanmars have known this already for ages, so lets go "green" Kyoto calling the coach !

Below, a beautiful small mosque of Bago Pegu reminding of the coexistence of the different religions without major friction.
 
 A beautiful small mosque of Bago Pegu                                       Roadside near the small mosque at Bago Pegu

 all at e-books