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Golden Myanmar, Myanmar culture,
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Myanmar also known as the
land of pagoda
and "the Golden Land'
has a long and very complex
history.
Myanmar history is centered
around Yangon, Mandalay,
Bagan and some other
ancient cities along the
Ayeyarwady
River or
Irrawaddy River.
Yangon or
Rangoon the former capital
is the main city in Myanmar,
but not the capital anymore.
The new capital is
Naypyidaw,
Mandalay in central
Myanmar
is the second biggest city
in the country and known as
a cultural and religious
hotspot.
Bagan the
old capital
under King Anawrahta was the main Myanmar or
Burmese city
between
(1044 to 1286 A.D.).
Buddhism
is the primary religion in
Myanmar,
there also are animistic
ideas centered around the
Nats, this are Myanmar
ghosts since ancient times.
Myanmar as
a country is dedicated
to
Buddhism and has lots of
variations due to the
topography and is one of the
great travel destination on
planet earth. From the snow
peaks of the Myanmar
Himalayas through the
tempered climate of the Shan
plateau. The jungle in the
hills of Myanmar and the dry
zone in central Myanmar.
The
tropical
islands in the
Myanmar Andaman Sea with the
sea gypsies and a great
underwater world, ideal for
scuba diving. Plus myriads
of pristine beaches on
Myanmar mainland and
islands
wait for the traveler on his
exotic Myanmar tour.
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Several
Myanmar Airlines
such as Yangon
Air, Myanmar Airlines
International, Air Bagan and
other serve the
international and domestic
Myanmar air traffic. The main
domestic airline is the
state owned Myanmar airlines
The
Buddhist
culture of old Burma, was
originally a product of the vast
river basin of the
Ayeyarwady
or Irrawaddy river,
with an extension
south-eastwards along the coast
to the delta of the Salween
river.
All the venerable city sites
where major
Myanmar
art was produced
belong to this lowland region.
It is not particularly
surprising; since even now the
higher ground is clothed in
dense rain-forest, and has been
inhabited for many centuries by
people whose folk-religion
demanded no expression in stone,
bronze or fired clay – the only
materials likely to survive for
long in the wet monsoon climate.
Buddhism
of the Theravada or Hinayana
branch was established as
the dominant religion in AD 1056, under the
king who unified the country,
Anawrahta of
Bagan.
If you travel to Myanmar there
is no way around to have a
excellent travel insurance like
this is not because of any
particular problem.
Myanmars are more civilized than
Swiss e.g. because Swiss let you
die in the trench if you wont
give money first. But if you
have a health problem due to a
accident or whatever which is
not under your control the
environment might be not as you
expected and in Myanmar cash is
requested.
This
event represents a historical
dateline in relation to which
the whole of early
Myanmar
history is most
easily understood. But Anawrahta
was setting up his state
religion as a unifying force in
opposition to earlier forms of
Buddhism and so-called `nature
religion', or believing in Nat.
which had their own history
behind them, and had probably
produced an art oft their own.
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Burmese
Culture |
So
deeply entrenched were these
earlier forms of religion that
they were never in fact taken
off from the minds of the
Myanmar, but only modified and
slightly adapted to fit the
religious patterns of Theravada
Buddhism. Its great strength is
that it can fit itself very
easily into almost any social
and cultural framework, without
losing its identity and without
demanding of its followers a
culturally damaging renunciation
of their own customs. Thus works
of art are found based on
popular non-Buddhist religious
themes of |

Buddhism and
Buddha |
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considerable antiquity, even in
the art of later
times. And
many Myanmar of the present day
are as devoted to the worship of
the Nats to astrology and even
to alchemy, as they are to the
doctrines of the Buddha.
Myanmar lies close to India,
and during the early Middle Age
India was a land of enterprise,
sending out her merchants and
colonists to many parts of
Southeast Asia. Myanmar received
his own groups of Indian
settlers at that time and later
pushed by the British
colonialists..
Brahmin astrologers are know to
have been in the service of
medieval kings in both Prome and
Bagan. And although Hindu images
dating from the sixth to tenth
centuries AD have been found,
Hinduism never establish itself
firmly in Myanmar |
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.Various
Indian forms of Buddhism
however, did. The principal
opponents of Anawrahta's |
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Worship of the
Nats |
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introduction of Theravada
Buddhism were a religious order
know to history as the Ari. They
were probably monks of Mahayana |

Myanmar at
Prome |
sects, for at
Prome and at
Bagan
a number of images of Mahayana
`deities' have been excavated.
The astrology practiced in Bun
is of Indian type too, so
altogether it seems that the
influence of. Indian culture has
always' been strong, mainly in
its
Buddhist manifestations.
It
is probable that the social
structure implicit Hindu theory
helped to make it unacceptable
to the tribally orientated
peoples of Myanmar. |

Tribally
orientated Myanmar people |
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The earliest concrete
evidence of the presence
of Indian influence on
Myanmar soil are the
fragments of Pali
Buddhist canonical texts
found at Old Prome dating
to about AD 500. |

Myanmar Chin and
tattooed |
Documentation of the
early history of Myanmar
is scant. Much of
Myanmar history is fanciful,
for genuine history was
not a Burmese forte.
Chinese
sources refer to wild,
tattooed and cannibal
tribes -see
Chin-
using bows and arrows.
Ptolemy's Geographica
identifies a coastline,
possibly around Moulmein,
where cannibals lived.
To the
seventh, eighth and
ninth centuries AD
probably belong
inscriptions from Prome
and Old Prome which
refer to kings with
Indian names, some of
whom may have been
connected . |

Buddha
with inscription at
Prome |
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with the Pallava
kings of
south-east
India. It seems,
however that
before
Anawrahta's
unification of
the kingdom two
principal
population
groups divided
the country
between them. |
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and along the
coast, the
Western Mon
people lived.
They were close
relatives of the
Eastern Mon, who
produced a
wealth of art in
Thailand and
Cambodia, and
spoke a language
of their own.
The Western Mon
of Myanmar
produced fine
art too, most of
it Theravada
Buddhist. In the
upper Irrawaddy
valley the Pyu
people were at
first dominant.
They spoke a
Tibeto - Burman
language, and
were mainly
Buddhists of one
kind or another
– though Hindu
deities were
known among
them. They were
recorded by the
Chinese, whose
Tang dynasty
history gives a
description of
an
eighth- |

Ayeyarwady or
Irrawaddy river
valley people |
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century Pyu city. It was
160 li (about
54 miles) in
circumference,
walled and
moated,
containing more
than a hundred
Buddhist
monasteries
lavishly adorned
with colors,
silver and gold.
When the
northern Pyu
capital was
captured and the
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Buddhist
Monasteries
at Bago |
people enslaved
by a neighboring
kingdom in Yunnan,
the way
was left
open for
the
infiltration
from the
Chinese-Tibetan
border-country
of the
'Myanmar'
people.
They
intermingled
with and came to
dominate the Pyu
and Mon, being
converted by
them to
Buddhism. It
seems that by
about AD 1000
the process of
conversion had
already begun,
for then a
Myanmar
ruler of Bagan
endowed the
foundation of a
Buddhist
ordination hall. |

Nats
Shrine
at
Yangon

Nats
spirits

The Nats
were
worshipped
with
orgiastic
ceremonies |
These
Myanmar
were probably
the original
worshippers of
the Nats,
and
transmitted
their cult in
exchange to the
peoples from
whom they
learned
Buddhism.
The Nats are an
extra-ordinary
mixed collection
of deities,
including
spirits of
trees, rivers,
ancestors,
snakes, and the
ghosts of people
who have met a
violent or
tragic death.
They like a
peaceful life,
and they can
wreak
destructive
vengeance on
people who annoy
them.
Originally
they were
numberless. But
in time a
canonical number
of thirty-six
was fixed for
them, with the
Buddha included
as the
thirty-seventh.
The Nats were
worshipped with
orgiastic
ceremonies, and
trance-rites of
spiritual
possession.
Mount Popa,
an
extinct
volcano
near
Bagan,
became the
sacred mountain
of a group of
them. Even today
the Nats exert a
powerful
influence on the
thought and
experience of
modern Myanmar.
The quality of the
feeling the Myanmar have for their Nats
is of the greatest importance in the
whole of Myanmar art; for the expression
of the best work is imbued with this
feeling, even the decoration of the huge
temples of Bagan.
It
supplies
the only
spark of
inspiration
in the
otherwise
lifeless,
colossal
images
of the
Buddha
found
everywhere. The Nats
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Nats at
Mount
Popa

Mount
Popa an
extinct
volcano
near
Bagan

Huge
temples
of Bagan |
| themselves
first appear in the art of old Bagan. There was a collection of old wooden Nat
images in the Shwezigon Pagoda at Bagan
during the late nineteenth century. |

Teakwood carved by Myanmar sculptors |
Teakwood carved by Myanmar sculptors which is now in Oxford. Images of this kind must have exerted a great influence on the course of art.
For in the best Myanmar art a sense of mystery emanates from these disembodied presences, invisible personalities inhabiting the forest trees, for whom magic is as normal a procedure as the use of hands, |

Nats figures at Mount Popa

Myanmar Nats

The 32 of the Nats

Buddhist Temple or Pagoda
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and who
are not looked on with any excessive
awe.
In some districts, in every
Nat-inhabited tree and in every village
home there is a Nat-house, made of
bamboo and grass, and decorated with
bright pieces of cloth and tinsel.
The
undulating, flame-like pointed plaques
and pinnacles which adorn Myanmar
architecture, and which celestial
figures and court dancers wear on their
shoulders, are intended to suggest the
transcendent realm of magic and heavenly
delight in terms peculiarly Myanmar.
The
sensual opulence of the
Indian history vision of
the heavens pro-vided the original
inspiration for the Myanmar version.
The
texts of Buddhism are full of
descriptions of the palaces of the gods,
but in Myanmar art heaven is imbued with
a gentle elegance and affection, while
the Indian emphasis on the physical body
is discounted.
Since these people have
always lived in immediate proximity to
their invisible neighbors, they are as
familiar to them as the inhabitants of
the next village. And as the Nats are
spiritual beings, and 'heaven' is the
region spiritual beings inhabit, the
Myanmar image of heaven is of a kind of
vastly enlarged village of Nat-houses.
The
Buddhist temple,
which according to Indian precedent may
be a symbolic representation of heaven,
is conceived in Myanmar as a hugely
glorified Nat-house, for the Buddha was
adopted as the greatest of the Nats. So
the same symbols of supernatural
splendor as adorn the Nats adorn the
Buddha's images, and a Nat-like
spirituality attaches to the ubiquitous
monks in whom the presence of Buddhism
is experienced as an everyday reality.
King Anawrahta (Indian
form : Aniruddha) |

Myanmar Dancer

Nat Number 4 |
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Tempel
at Bagan |
was of
Myanmar stock,
and ruled at Bagan in the old Pyu
kingdom. He captured the venerable Mon
capital of
Thaton and carried off its
royal family, many skilled craftsmen and
most of the Theravada monks, to Bagan.
The superior culture of the Mon captives
was recognized. They were honored, and
given the task of organizing and
civilizing the new Myanmar kingdom.
Under Anawrahta's successors, links with
the Buddhist homeland were forged.
Embassies were sent to Bodhgaya in
Bihar, and the great Mahabodhi temple
there – marking the spot where the
Buddha achieved enlightenment – was
restored with Myanmar money, perhaps
even slightly in Myanmar taste. And
although Theravada was the officially
established form of religion, tolerance
was extended to other forms, and it is
clear that the form of
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Theravada
adopted
was
itself
impregnated
with
elements
from
other
doctrines.
The
Mahayana
had its
devotees,
and
there
are some
tenth-century
frescoes
on a
temple
at Bagan
suggesting
that the
Tantric.
Buddhism
(Vajrayana)
of
Bengal
was
popular
for a
time.
From the
eleventh
to the
thirteenth
century
was the
'golden
Age' of
Myanmar
art. In
1287
Myanmar
was
sacked
and
garrisoned
by the
Mongols.
Thereafter
Myanmar
art
traditions
petrified. |
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The art of the epoch
before Anawrahta, however, in the Pyu
region of Upper Myanmar, must have had
its own splendor. The one Pyu city to
have been investigated archaeologically,
the old Shri Kshetra, now
Pyi - Prome -
Pyay,
was enclosed in a
massive wall. It was larger than Bagan
or even Mandalay, and Mon inscriptions
refer to it as the capital even after
Anawrahta's death.
Near the city are
three huge ruined pagodas, the largest
one a hundred and fifty feet high; a
number of small, vaulted, brick chapels
probably formed part of the religious
complex. The
pagodas are
tall, brick cylinders, mounted on
shallow, stepped circular plinths. Their
apices already have the
characteristically Myanmar concave
bell-like pinnacle tapering to the
central point. |

Shri Kshetra
Pyu Pagoda Ruins from the 15th
century |

New
Myanmar Pagoda
Architecture Maha Wizaya
Pagoda Yangon |
The later course of
Myanmar pagoda
architecture can be
described generally as
the gradual elimination
of what was the main
body of the Pyu pagoda – the cylindrical drum –
and the progressive amalgamation of the
forms of the flange-molded apex with the
stepped plinth. The Pyu chapels follow
two patterns. One is a
simple rectangular hall, with massive
walls, buttresses and a single framed
entrance door. The other is square in
plan, set upon a square central plinth,
with entrance doors on each of the four
sides. This latter pattern follows a
familiar Indian type.
The works of art found at
Shri Kshetra today
Pyi or Pyay
are extremely varied, and little order
can yet be introduced into them. There
are plenty of stone images of the Hindu
god Vishnu – who is, incidentally, the
Hindu deity most often encountered in
Southeast Asia. As, he represents the
central principle of existence, lie
travels more easily than other Hindu
deities who are more closely involved
with the native Indian social structure.
The Ari religion is probably represented
by a few works of art based on the
Mahayana form of Buddhism. There are
bronze images of Bodhisattvas, who were
especially cultivated by the Mahayana.
These are enlightened, compassionate
beings, entitled to Nirvana, who yet
abstain from their own release in order
to save the suffering creatures who are
still in bondage to the world. They are
able through their great virtue to
perform miracles. They appear in art as
beautiful persons, wearing the crowns
and jewels of kingship. There are
orthodox Theravada Buddhist images, as
well, and inscriptions.
The Pyu evidently used to
burn their dead and place the ashes in
pottery vessels which were kept in rows
in the precincts of the shrine,
sometimes on brick platforms covered
with earth. |
|
Unfortunately, little is
known of the earliest phases of Western
Mon art in Myanmar. Its achievements are
known from a later phase when it was
exercised in the service of Anawrahta's
Theravada Bagan, and it
produced a splendid
profusion of
architecture and other
art.
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Bagan Pagoda
Architecture |
is
definitely the dominant
art, and except
for the big icons, sculpture and
painting have only a subordinate role to
play. Carving and ornament never take
the prominent role they do in the origin
it Indian buildings, or in other parts
of Southeast Asia.
The materials
of the Bagan Myanmar pagodas are
brick and stucco, and they have lasted
pretty well. A single Hindu temple, and
a few remains of Mahayana inspiration,
survive among the mass of Theravada
structures belonging to the two hundred
years of Bagan's greatness, before the
Mongol conquest. They have, of
course, suffered neglect,
damage, and some – perhaps worst
of all – from restoration in
debased style. Even so, Bagan
still contains the largest
surviving group of the brick
buildings which once stood in
many parts of south Asia. |

Bagan Pagoda
remains

Bagan Monastery
 |
There are
thousands of Pagoda remains in Bagan
Myanmar , and the relatively
dry central Myanmar weather must have much to do with this.
Similar to India, the
surviving monuments are only the remains
of an great volume of building, most
of which must have been made of wood but
wood is prone to fire and other
natural decay. Only sacral
buildings where made from stone
and bricks.
Myanmar teak
was abundant in the jungles of upper
Myanmar, and bamboo grows everywhere
means most of the structures
from before were gone over time.
The huge area of
Bagan Myanmar
extended far beyond the limits of the
known city walls, and it is likely that
the surviving brick monuments remains were
surrounded by dense building in
perishable materials. About these,
however, it is possible only to
spectaculate and assume that they
supplied patterns and prototypes for
what can still be seen standing in brick
and stucco.
From the inscriptions
we know that royal devotees frequently
turned their
teak palaces over to the uses of
religion. So it is probable that
monastic architecture and palace
architecture were at the very least
compatible.
And what is more, Bagan
Myanmar monastery were – and
still are – adorned with a
splendor worthy of the
palaces of divine kings – gilded,
painted, and carved with lavish
ornament. The
Myanmar monks are committed to a
life of absolute poverty, but their
laity, to whom they symbolize the saving
Truth, ensure that the glory of this
symbolism is made apparent in the
monastic environment.
The most important early
buildings at Bagan Myanmar are the two shrines
flanking the Tharabha gate to the city, which contain damaged images
of the Mahagiri Nats, and the early
monastic library, the Pitakattaik. All
are built in brick, with solid
walls.
The
Tharabha gate Bagan shows the relics of the
flat pilasters and molded architrave
which are a common feature of Myanmar
building, particularly at the corners of
the structures. The shrines themselves
are very simple, and have obviously lost
their original ornaments.
The
rectangular library, however, retains
its five-tiered roof, from which sprout
flamboyant, curvilinear flanges, and
which is crowned by a central spire. It
is reminiscent in its proportions of
Indian prototypes. A library, of course,
is an important building in a Buddhist
monastery, for books are vehicles of the
doctrine. |
|
The most numerous and
important buildings at Bagan Myanmar, however,
should be classed as cetiyas. They have
a history and line of evolution of their
own, from pagoda into huge structural
temple. The normal pagoda is a tall
structure incorporating on a plinth a
solid dome, which is surmounted by a
member called the harmika. Originally,
on the oldest Indian pagodas, this
harmika was a small railed enclosure,
inside and below which the relic-chamber
was set into the dome.
But in Myanmar
pagodas the harmika has become a large
decorated die. Above the harmika is a
circular pointed spire, flanged, in
memory of its origin, as a range of
honorific umbrellas of decreasing size,
set one above the other, over the
harmika and relic-chamber. In practice,
harmika and umbrella-spire become a
single architectural unit. Cetiyas based
on the pagoda are the true focus of the
Buddhist faith. The pagoda-temple and
its Buddha image is a
direct functional
derivative of the pagoda
as emblem of final
Nirvana. |

Bupaya
Pagoda |
Pagodas of a pattern
related to the old Pyu pagoda at Shri
Kshetra are found at Bagan.
The
earliest, the Bupaya Pagoda , at
Bagan Myanmar was
actually built by the Pyu. It stands on
a high platform; its own plinth is
simple, low, and octagonal. Its harmika
and umbrella-spire form a single, tall
concave-sided cone. |
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The pagoda type
usually attributed to Anawrahta is
similar to this old Pyu pattern. The
main point of
evolution is in
the greater
elaboration of
the terraced
plinths. These
pagodas stand on
a series of
stepped
octagonal
terraces, which
may themselves
stand on what
are virtually
sacred mountains
–further
terraces with
staircases
mounting from
terrace to
terrace up each
of the four
sides. In this
they resemble
monuments in
other parts of
Southeast Asia.
The domes are
tall,
bell-shaped
cylinders, often
with bands of
ornamental
molding half-way.
Two versions, both
reworked, of the type of majestic pagoda
associated with King Anawrahta of Bagan
Myanmar. The high
plinths which
resemble sacred
mountains carry
terraces around
which pilgrims
can walk up.
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Shwesandaw
Pagoda |
Their crowning spires vary in
pattern. Some resemble a series of
diminishing built-tiers, others more
closely resemble piled-up flanges. The
most significant characteristic of some
of these pagodas attributed to Anawrahta
– for example the Shwesandaw
Pagoda– is
found on the
series of
rectangular
terraces forming
the sacred
mountain on
which the pagoda
stands.
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At the corners
of these terraces replicas of
themselves are given horizontal bands of
molding. In the earlier instances of
this type of pagoda at least two of the
five or six octagonal plinth-terraces
can be used for circumambulation. But
with the development of huge rectangular
terraced storeys of the sacred mountain
at the end of the eleventh century, the
octagonal terraces atrophy, and become
no more than molded flanges round the
lower rim of the bell-shaped dome.
By the twelfth
century the pattern of
the pagoda has
changed into the form
from which the true
Myanmar temple was to
spring. The dome has
become highly ornate,
the bands of ornament
found on the older Pyu
or
Pyay
type having become wider
and deeper, with Buddhas
in framed cartouches
facing out in the four
cardinal directions.
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Ananda Temple
and Pagoda

Pagoda and Buddha image

Pagoda and Buddha image

Pagoda and Temple Bagan |
|
The old octagonal
plinths have become
an elaborate e series of flanged
moldings round the base of the
dome. The spire has become a
massive conical molded and
flanged crown to the dome, while
the lower, square tiers of
terraces have become fewer in
number and individually higher,
so that each presents a tall
wall surface. The miniature
spires at the terrace
corners have become
virtually miniature
pagodas. The epitome of
this style is the Seinnyet Nyima cetiya at
MyinBagan.
On monuments
in Bagan Myanmar of this last
type, decorative figure sculpture comes
very much to the fore. There can be
little doubt that .n this respect – and
in the actual form of the pagoda,
notably in the new weight of the conical
spire – there is a strong reassertion of
Indian influence. For it was about the
time when this development was taking
place that the Myanmar, on their own
account, established relations
with the heartland of Buddhism
in Bihar. There the late Pala
style was flourishing, and it
would be entire .y natural for
the Myanmar
to wish to attach
themselves to the
expressive modes of the
country which was the
source of their
religious inspiration.
It is likely that at the
same time the Myanmar
were prompted to a
further architectural
development it by what
they saw in contemporary
India. |
|
 |
This involved the opening up of the
terraced base of the pagoda into a
temple interior. The sacred mountain was
a piece of natural Myanmar symbolism,
for Mount Popa was the home of the great
Nats, and hollow Nat shrines, described
above, had been made. In India the
symbolism of the temple as sacred
mountain had been very highly evolved,
and the whole interior of the massive
pile of the temple had been opened up,
on the |
 |
|
analogy of the cave in the
hillside. Within the sacred
mountain the germ of its
sanctity could be made visible
in its hollow depths. In the eastern regions of
India where the Myanmar were making
contact under Anawrahta's successors,
the centrally planned brick
temple was a standard
architectural pattern.
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Buddhist cave
sanctuary |
It was crowned by a molded spire,
raised on a high plinth, with
staircases at the centre of four
sides. Under the spire was the
main cell where the chief image
was housed.
In India, too, it had long been
conventional for the rock-cut
pagoda within a Buddhist
cave-sanctuary to bear on
its face a carved figure of the
Buddha. This was to demonstrate
that the Buddha nature dwelt
inside the monumental
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Rock cut
pagoda at Powintaung
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emblem of Nirvana, the
Buddhist Truth. By a
combination of these two
conceptions the Myanmar
arrived at the idea of
their own pagoda-temple.
By burrowing into the
undercroft of their
pagodas, as into the
sacred mountain which
the terraces suggested,
they could open up an
internal temple area, in
which the Buddha image
would occupy the central
spot. The pagoda-dome would
serve as mountain-peak and spire.
But
since the association of Buddha image
and pagoda was accepted, the pagoda
would naturally be thought of as
extending down into the undercroft to
contain the Buddha image. The
surrounding terraces of the sacred
mountain could then also be interpreted
as lean-to roofs, even awnings round the
root of the pagoda-drum. The exterior of
the temple could still suggest the idea
of the sacred mountain crowned by its
pagoda. |

Temple
Interior Myanmar |
But the new logic of the
temple interior
would add a fresh
dimension to the idea,
as a place to be entered
for a direct encounter
with the true doctrine.
Sculpture and Buddha
Image painting at
Bagan Myanmar on
halls, corridors and
doorways could recount
the life of the Buddha,
and present the example
of his previous lives.
The opening up of the
lower terraces
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as buildings with
internal wall faces of
their own would make it
unnecessary for the
roofs of the tiers
actually to serve as
ambulatory terraces.
Following the
Indian symbolism of the cosmic mountain,
however, what had been the
terrace-corners retained their small
pagodas, for the cosmic mountain
naturally possessed its foothills.
Finally, the terraces as well as the
inner rooms and passages became the
heavenly habitat of all the spiritual
creatures of Myanmar and Buddhist
mythology.
The first phase of this
temple development is represented by the
Abeyadana
temple at Bagan Myanmar,
which is really a pagoda, but its bottom
storey is opened into an ambulatory
corridor lit by latticed windows. The
window-frames are set between flat
pilasters, and crowned with a lobed
hood-molding worked with a row of
flame-finials.
The 'Tally
Temple' near the Sabbannu
or Thatbyinnyu, Bagan, is a
splendid example of a twelfth-century
temple. The central mountain-spire is a
large, bell-domed pagoda, worked with
lavish stucco surface ornament, which
stands clear and intact on top of the
terraced structure.
The terrace block
of the temple has become a true building, and the
terraces themselves have been reduced to
a stepped roof. The four tall entrance
doors are double-framed, stepped-out
with porches, and crowned with high
flame-finial hoods. The walls are deeply
recessed and heavily plastered ; the
base and architrave have deeply worked
horizontal moldings; the corner
pinnacles are square in section.
Two other twelfth-century
temples in Bagan Myanmar show the further course of the
evolution. In both of them the
pagoda-spire has been, as it were,
absorbed into the square body of the
terrace block. It has become square in
section, though its umbrella-pinnacle
remains circular.
It is clearly
following the pattern of the bowed spire
of east Indian temples in scale, seeming
to be no more than the largest of the
many spires on the terrace roofs.
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Thatbyinnyu or
Sabbannu Temple |
The
first of these temples is the great Sabbannu
or Thatbyinnyu
Temple itself, built immediately
before the 'Tally Temple' - the latter
is said to have been built of the tally
bricks put aside, one for each ten
thousand bricks used on the Sabbannu.
The Sabbannu
or Thatbyinnyu
itself is a typical square temple formed
as an opened-up terrace block. Inside,
in a domed cell under |
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the main spire is a
colossal seated Buddha figure. But this temple is itself raised
on its own solid sacred mountain plinth
of three square terraces, the lowest
storey of which is again high, and
opened up with an ambulatory corridor,
lit by two tiers of flame-hooded
windows.
Passages and stairways run up
through the massive plinth. The second
of these temples is the Nagayon, at
MyinBagan.
This is an integral square
temple, of a broader spread, and with
broad, sloping roofs as terraces. But to
its square terrace block and building is
added a long hall, the gable-end of
which is adorned with the standard
double flame-finial cum hood-antifixes.
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Pagoda Dome
Shwezigon

Buddha Image

Abeyadana Temple

Bagan Balloon Tour

Bagan Pagoda made from thousands
of bricks

Nagayon Temple |
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The crowning achievement
of the Mon temple-builders at Bagan was
the great Ananda temple. It is still in
use, unlike most of the old temples of
Bagan, and so it is kept in repair,
painted a blazing white with
lime-stucco. It is square in plan, with
a long porch-hall added to all of the
four doors in the four faces of the
square. The brick mass is pierced with a
grid of corridors, and the terraced
roofs are sloping. |

Ananda Temple
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Ananda Temple Interior Buddha
Statue
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A colossal standing Buddha
figure Ananda Temple |

Ananda Temple Interior
Ananda Temple
Interior Wall
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A colossal standing
Buddha figure – of base, reworked
type – faces out from it along each of
the approach-halls. Inside the temple is
lavishly adorned with relief's of
Buddhist subjects
The Ananda
Temple towering central
spire is perhaps closest of all to the
east Indian temple spire, grooved and
channeled with multiple moldings, with a
vertical band of blind windows up the
centre of each face. The broadest
terraced roofs have pagodas at each
corner. The more central, small roofs
have seated lions, standard emblems of
the power of the Buddhist doctrine.
The
faces of the lower Ananda Temple storey are
squared-off by vertical pilasters and a
horizontal band.
The edges of all the
roofs of the Ananda Temple are crenellated, and each of the
magnificent doors is crowned with two
huge triangular hood-antifixes of
flame-finial. Inside, the spire descends
through the roofs to floor-level, as a
pagoda-block.
The later evolution of
the Bagan temple consisted of
modifications of these canonical forms,
mainly by the alteration of the relative
proportions of the different parts.
The thirteenth-century
Gawdawpalin temple adheres to the
pattern of the rectilinear temple plus
extra plinth. The
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Inside the
Ananda Temple

Ananda Temple Lady

Ananda Temple Yard |
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ornament and flame
hood-antefixes are much emphasized and
enlarged. This –
the Myanmar style, as distinct from the
Mon – tends to stress the height. of the
walls with its highly ornamented
pilasters. Porches may be crowned not
only with hoods, but even with tiered
pinnacles, as in the Sembyoku. One
temple at least – the Obelisk of Wet-kyi-in,
Ku-byauk-ki – was built as a direct
imitation of the square, straight-sided
pyramid-tower of the great temple at
Bodhgaya, called the Mahabodhi. This had
been restored by Anawrahta's successor,
Kyanzittha, in the early twelfth
century. The Myanmar version has little
roundels, each containing a relief
figure of a celestial, on each of the
many partitions on the faces of the
tower.
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As time went on,
Myanmar
brick-and-stucco architecture developed
principally through the elaboration and
often the coarsening ofits ornament. It
is, however, impossible to form an
adequate idea of the older styles of
temple architecture used, for example,
at the sites of the great temples of
Rangoon or Mandalay. Bagan's temples
were mostly abandoned, so that even
though they may be ruined, they show
their original characteristics. But
temples which have remained in
continuous use have been continually and
drastically restored. Pagodas may have
been sheathed in as many as eight
successive casings of brick and stucco.
Temple walls and doors are constantly
torn down and rebuilt, and stucco may be
renewed almost annually. Applying fresh
gilding and glass inlay is popularly
regarded as an act of merit, so revered
architectural monuments suffer from it
continually.
Among the
more recent pagodas
there is only a little
variety. In fact they
can be built at a great
pace and there may be
hundreds of many sizes,
with many variant
patterns of molding,
around a Buddhist
monastery. The most
expensive kind are
covered quickly with
extravagant and gross
stucco ornament, but
simpler examples can be
beautiful.
Occasional interesting
combinations of Buddhism and Naga cult
are found in pagodas with an open cell
containing an image of the Buddha, the
plinth of which is composed of a Naga
coiled round the structure . This is
possibly an echo of the Khmer Bayon type
of Buddha or Naga. Among monastic
buildings of wood are many derived
partly from Chinese patterns, and then
Myanmarized by their ornamental
treatment.
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There are in the Shan
states a number of purely Chinese
administrative and monastic buildings.
But at the great pagoda sites of
southern Myanmar, such as the large
Shwemawdaw Pagoda at
Bago, the Mingun, Arakan or
Maha Muni of
Mandalay, there are
numerous wooden buildings in which
Chinese forms are buried under Myanmar
modifications and ornament. At the great
Shwedagon at Rangoon, for example, where
numerous extremely sacred relics are
enshrined, the 'Southern Shrine' is
based on the Chinese many-tiered pagoda.
The base-storey is cruciform in plan,
however, with porch-gables overriding
each other, reminiscent of old Bagan,
but the wooden pillars that support the
porches are Chinese in conception. Yet
all the angles of pillar and architrave
are filled with pierced wood-panels of
scroll and flower ornament, and every
roof gable, tier and terrace effloresces
with flamboyant pointed cartouches of
similar pierced work, so that the whole
building is smothered in repetitive
ornament, lavishly gilded.
Similar structures, or
long halls with double- or triple-tiered
gabled roofs at other pagoda sites,
where less merit-money has been
spent,-have less ornament, and may be
extremely beautiful, with only a few
flamboyant antefixes pointing the gables
and punctuating the eaves. Such
buildings abound all over Myanmar. They
have never been listed, surveyed or
studied. In the Shan states, at the town
of Kengtung, for example, beautiful
examples of rustic wooden monastery
architecture may be seen, where the
entire effect is achieved by a
multiplicity of plain tiled roofs set
into and against each other, or riding
over each other in terraced gables.
Hardly any paint or gilt mars the
simplicity.
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Shwemawdaw Pagoda
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At the present time,
financial stringency and a few cases of
enlightened patronage have produced
wooden architecture, either for
monasteries or for official buildings,
which succeeds in capturing the virtues
of the most chaste monastic
architecture. Usually in the past,
however, the royal palace, and the
palaces of princes and chieftains, have
always been disfigured with an
incrustation of extravagantly pierced
and gilt antefixes, barge-boards,
finials and balcony-rails, the design of
which is merely monstrous, however rich.
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Myanmar figurative art
shows the Buddha as a golden or white
icon, in a blandly attractive person,
unmarked by his asceticism or suffering;
the image is meant to show his spiritual
not his physical nature. Buddha images,
which can be miniature or colossal, are
generalized. It is part of their
function to display absence of
'personality' and individualism, and
they are thus monotonous.
It has been
described how Buddhists believe that all
Buddha images, if they are to have any
effective virtue or magical power, must
be careful copies of the earliest
images. Buddha images in Myanmar, which
is a conservative Theravada country, are
therefore made according to a systematic
proportional scheme which the craftsmen
have handed down for centuries. At the
same time it is believed that to make,
or to pay for the making of a new Buddha
image is a virtuous act, helping the
donor on the way to enlightenment by
creating merit for him. Thus there has
always been an incentive in Myanmar, as
in Siam, for people to multiply
identical Buddha images in all sorts of
materials, not because they were needed,
but because it was a good thing to do
for its own sake.
At its lowest, this
belief has led people to go to temples
and spend an hour or two stamping out
clay Buddha's with a metal stamp. This
custom was no
less prevalent
in Myanmar than
in Siam, and
temples often
have rooms
containing
thousands of
this kind of
Buddha. |

Buddha image |
There are only three
principal iconic positions in which the
Buddha appears in Myanmar art. The first
is in the 'earth-touching' attitude. The
Buddha sits cross-legged, his body
upright, his left hand is laid palm up
in his lap, his right hand stretched
forward over his right knee so that the
tips of the fingers touch the ground.
This refers to the moment of the
Buddha's enlightenment, when he called
the earth itself to witness that he was
entitled, by the virtue he had
accumulated over the ages, to the
supreme insight. The second shows the
Buddha standing with his right hand
raised in the gesture of protection, his
left held down, palm out, giving
blessings. The third principal icon of
the Buddha represents him lying on his
right side, his cheek resting on his
right hand, in the act of dying into
Nirvana.
The rest of the Buddhist
representational iconography of Myanmar
is based mainly on stories dealing with
the life of the Buddha, and with his
lives in earlier incarnations.
Characteristically, these stories are
all represented as relief's or paintings
in an abbreviated form, containing only
the principal figures, and without any
expressive or dramatic interest at all.
They serve only as schematic reminders
of stories that everyone knows, and do
not have to tell the story. Sometimes
the representations contain figures of
the celestials, who are often mentioned
in Buddhist texts as listening to the
Buddha's sermons, or attending him.
Myanmar art always represents them as
delicate, elegant creatures, garlanded
with scarves. Certainly these Indian
celestials were conceived by the Myanmar
in the image of their Nats.
Figurative sculpture as
represented in the colossal Buddha
images enshrined in the temples of
Myanmar or Burma, has
never been a highly successful art form
in Myanmar. The oldest images at Bagan
were often built of brick and finished
in stucco. Many huge modern images are
made in the same way. The technique is
not a flexible one, and the Myanmar had
no particular incentive to develop
expression in the figures. They remain
faithful and monotonous centerpieces for
the devotions of the Buddhist faithful.
They were heavily and repeatedly gilded,
since paying for the application of
gilding to an image was always held to
be a meritorious act. This sort of pious
gilding always obscured the aesthetic
qualities of an image. Along the borders
of the robe an inlay of precious or
semi-precious stones was often set,
again as a testimony to the piety of a
donor. Just as it is impossible to study
the evolution of the architecture of
living temples, so it is not possible to
compose a stylistic sequence for large
Myanmar images which have been
continuously reworked. No research has
been done in the field, and it is not
likely that there would be much concrete
result if it were.
In the case of smaller
images, of bronze, stone or wood in
Myanmar or Burma, dating
is also difficult; there is no means as
yet of distinguishing the work of
different localities and of different
times, and no inscriptions with dates
are available. The most that can be done
is to offer a tentative identification
of certain images with an older,
up-country provenance. It is possible
that they contain vestiges of Pyu style,
and certainly some overtones of Chinese
form. They tend to be mounted on high
lotus plinths, and to wear modeled
crowns whose panels are very tall and
pointed, as are the tall flame-like
protuberances of the skull. From the
shoulders there often rise high flanges,
fretted and flamboyant. The modeling of
the body and face is restrained, but it
has more of the old sense of Indian
volume to the limbs than the orthodox
Myanmar type of Buddha.
There are traces of
Khmer-Thai style in many Myanmar images
because after the Mongols broke Myanmar
power in 1287, these neighbors of the
Myanmar took over much erstwhile Myanmar
territory, and maintained continuous
contact with the sources of Theravada
Buddhism in Ceylon through Lower
Myanmar. The orthodox Myanmar Buddha
image is thus characterized by a bland
horizontal emphasis in the features of
the mask; but the forms of the body are
suppressed into indeterminate volumes
beneath the tent-like forms of the robe.
The robe's pleats follow a simple,
fan-like pattern; and end-folds appear
sometimes developed into a fish-tail
pattern. Extremely undemonstrative
reticence, and no attempt at the
expression of qualities, mark the
hundreds of orthodox Buddhas in bronze,
wood and white marble.
In a few of the temples
of Bagan Myanmar there survive relief sculptures
in painted terracotta and frescoes that
give some idea of tEe original splendor
of the buildings. The style is markedly
eastern Indian, very close indeed to
Pala art in Biher and Bengal. Relief
from the Ananda temple confine
themselves to a few clearly silhouetted
figures and objects disposed on the
ground, scarcely developed sculpturally
beyond their mere outlines. The most
interesting work, however, is the
brilliantly colored fresco-painting in,
for example, the Abeyadana an id the
Wet-kyi-in, Ky-byauk-kyi. Frescoes in
the Abeyadana represent a whole Tantric
series of divine principles ranged above
each other on arcades. There are flying
celestials in the fine slim-bodied
sinuous style which provided the
unvarying; basis for the whole later art
of Myanmar. And here and there
individual figures testify to a quality
of invention that is no whit inferior to
the Indian prototypes. Indeed it is
possible that Indian Buddhist painters,
at first willing immigrants, but later
those expelled from their own country by
the Moslem holocaust, actually painted
some of the walls at Bagan.
The course followed by
the later evolution of Myanmar styles of
relief and painting was always governed
by a tendency towards schematic
simplification. There is in Theravada
Buddhism a strong streak of puritanism
towards the arts. Artistic expression is
regarded as an indulgence flattering to
the senses. It can only be tolerated if
it is purged of all reference to
actuality and converted into a kind of
mnemonic diagram. Bright simple colors –
red, yellow, green and gold – and
generalized floral decoration are
admitted only because they attract the
simple mind, and give it an impetus
towards the truth contained in the
legend. The idea of developing a visual
language for expressing Buddhist ideas,
and exploring its resources as was done
in Mahayana countries was absolutely
excluded in Myanmar.
The later sculptures of
auxiliary figures from Buddhist
mythology occasionally, makes a more
substantial attempt at aesthetic
expression. For example, there are
figures representing Buddhist saints who
are supposed to be listening to the
sermons of the Buddha, sometimes placed
in a reverent attitude before the main
image in a shrine or hall. Most commonly
they are of wood, gilded, and with stone
or glass inlaid ornament along the
borders of their robes. Their figures,
features and shaven heads are far more
typical of the Myanmar people than the
stereotyped Buddha images, and there is
some correspondence with visual
actuality. Their expression is bland,
elegant and sweet, with all emotion
exiled. But the forms of which they are
composed are usually hesitant,
undifferentiated, and made without any
conceptual firmness or certainty.
The teakwood figures of
the Nats in Myanmar or Burma, mentioned earlier, of which
there is a set of copies in Oxford,
belong to the same order of art as the
temple furniture. They are carved in the
same manner and technique. Many of the
wooden halls contain brackets or panels
carved with elegant figures representing
the inhabitants of the heavens. Their
attitudes and ornaments are based on
those of the palace dancers. They wear
the usual insignia of immortals –
upward-pointed epaulettes, and tall,
pagoda-like pointed hats, often adorned
with flamboyant cartouches. The Nats are
carved more or less in the full-round,
without the tension of form that is
produced by the more demanding
sculptural modes evolved in other
countries of Southeast Asia. Some ride
on their canonical animal vehicles,
elephants or horses, and they hold
weapons or make characteristic gestures
by means of which they can be
identified.
One of the most important
types of Myanmar temple and monastery furniture, examples of
which are found in some Western museums,
are large, gilded sutra-chests,
ornamented with relief in gesso. Such
chests were used to store the
manuscripts of the sacred Buddhist texts
possessed by every monastery. Since
these texts contained, as it were, the
essence of Buddhism, the spiritual
life-blood of the monastery, the chests
in which they were kept had to be worthy
receptacles, and they shared something
of the reverence accorded the texts. The
gilt and ornament are the visible
evidence of this reverence. The chests
stood backed against the walls in the
library halls, and were subsidiary foci
of the decorative scheme.
Their ornament is in very
flat relief - true two-plane relief
and
for this very reason - the strictness of
the limitations of the medium - much of
this relief ornament is the most
aesthetically satisfying work produced
by the Myanmar sculptor. The top of the
chest is usually plain gilt, and the
back, which is not normally seen, is the
same. The chest may be supported on a
gilt molded stand, perhaps with feet.
Old chests were often given new stands,
as it seems that their old stands often
decayed, or suffered damage. The front
face of the chest bears stylized
representations of scenes from the life
of the Buddha. Large areas of mirror may
be set into the gesso to represent a
lake, or the body of an ornamental
chariot. The figures are few in number,
laid out schematically over the surface;
they tend to follow the horizontal and
vertical directions, thus giving an air
of repose and calm to the design. The
side faces usually show figures of
celestials bearing their 'insignia', in
ornamental frames.
Another kind of temple
furniture in which the Myanmar excelled
was
lacquer ware.
Today domestic rice bowls, either for
use at home, or, more elaborate, for
sale abroad, are made by stiffening a
basis of fiber - often hair - with clay
and lacquer-juice. They may have gilt
figures or ornament on a ground of black
lacquer. But the more elaborate temple
'lacquers' may be very large indeed,
often compounded of as many as twenty
separately formed pieces. Usually they
are of red lacquer, and most have black
figures and
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somewhat
stereotyped 'rococo scroll-like
ornament. The chief items are ceremonial
'alms bowls', meant initially to receive
offerings of food from the faithful for
the support of the monks. But later on,
of course, the kind of alms deposited in
these ornate bowls and thus sanctified
was no longer in the form of food, but
substantial wealth. Generally speaking,
the forms of the bowls and related boxes
are simple, with plain cylindrical or
basin-shaped bodies. At the foot and
lip, however, there is usually raised
ornament in the form of molded flanges.
Often a highly ornate base-stand and lid
are added, both with elaborate tiers of
molded flanges.Both these
may be assembled out of
separate pieces which
fit into one another.
The lid usually towers
up into an elaborate
conical finial
resembling the pinnacle
of a pagoda, once more
recalling the Buddhist
purpose inspiring the
gift of the alms -
ultimate Nirvana through
the merit accumulated
from 'giving'. |
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