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In his “Gentleman in the Parlor,” (1930), Somerset Maugham, at his first sight of the Pagoda was inspired to write that the superb, glistening, golden Shwedagon Pagoda rising superbly upwards, was like a sudden hope in the dark night of the soul.

The people of Myanmar have provided for the entire world to see one of the greatest cultural monuments ever erected by man.” Supreme Court Justice Douglas of the U.S.A. in his “North from Malaya,” wrote, “But of all things that man has erected by his hands~ the Shwedagon Pagoda is the loveliest I have known.”

According to the chronicles, in 585 B.C., Tapussa and Bhallika, two Myanmar merchant - brothers went for trade to India. They were fortunate to meet the Lord Buddha and received eight hair relics. They returned to Myanmar and as a gesture of welcoming the hair relics, several pagodas were built along the coastal way. These pagodas are still known as San-daw-kyo Payamyar (Pagodas built as a token to welcome the hair relics) King Okkalapa himself came to welcome the hair relics. The Shwedagon Pagoda was built and the relics enshrined there.

During construction, relics of the three preceding Buddha’s (Kakusan, Konago, and Kassapa) were excavated

and re-enshrined, giving the Shwedagon Pagoda the name “Pagoda of Four Relics” (Le-zu-dat-pon-Shwedagon). Shwedagon Pagoda was successively renovated and rebuilt by the kings of Hanthawaddy (Bago). King Binnya U raised its height to 60 feet, and in 1451 A.D. Queen Shinsawpu raised its height to 302 feet. It was also gilded with gold from top to bottom.

In 1775, the Shwedagon Pagoda was rebuilt by King Sinbyushin of Inwa, raising it to its present height, with its present form and new hti.

The British forces occupied Theingottara Hill and fortified it in 1824. In 1871, King Mindon placed a new hti, vane and diamond orb on the top of the Shwedagon Pagoda. Shwedagon Pagoda this most sacred of all Myanmar shrines and the largest of its kind in the world, is always thronged with devotees, especially on holy days, when water flowers and candles are offered at the images of the Lord Buddha. All visitors of the Shwedagon Pagoda are ever welcome and they should make it a ‘must’ to explore and get to know more about it.

Four covered stairway or zaungdans, one from each cardinal point, and four elevators lead up the hill to the main platform of the Shwedagon Pagoda. Stalls line the stairways of the Shwedagon Pagoda selling offerings such as flowers, candles and gold leaves; Buddha images in wood, alabaster and ivory; household Buddha shrines; brass-ware, teak and ivory sculptures; gongs and cymbals. The main and the busiest entrance of the Shwedagon Pagoda is the southern one, leading up from Shwedagon Pagoda Road. An escalator is in service here and also at the northern entrance.

Under the burning sun the hot marble slabs paving the Shwedagon Pagoda platform are a problem for bare-footed visitors, so a rug walkway runs around the platform.

The heavy gilded Shwedagon Pagoda main stupa occupies the center. The Shwedagon Pagoda stupa has an octagonal base with eight smaller stupas on each of its eight sides, making a total of sixty-four. Many pavilions (tazaungs), resting places (zayats), assorted images, statues, temples, shrines and smaller pagodas are grouped around the massive central stupa. Manokthihas (sphinxes), surrounded by a number of ‘chintes’ are found, one at each corner of the platform.

At each cardinal point of the compass around the Shwedagon Pagoda platform are the eight planetary posts representing the eight days of the week (Wednesday is divided into a.m. and p.m. making it two days), each with its own planet and animal symbol. Beside each planetary post is a gilded Buddha figure made of alabaster.

At each cardinal point of the compass around the platform are the eight planetary posts representing the eight days of the week (Wednesday is divided into a.m. and p.m. making it two days), each with its own planet and animal symbol. Beside each planetary post is a gilded Buddha figure made of alabaster.

Upon reaching the Shwedagon Pagoda platform via the southern stairway, one can see the Adoration Hall or Temple of Konagamana directly facing you. Turn left and begin walking in a clockwise direction as the faithful customarily do.

Just beside the temple is the planetary post for Mercury. The planetary post for Saturn comes next, on the south-western side of the Shwedagon Pagoda stupa. On the opposite side is a pavilion containing 28 images depicting the 28 ‘avatars’ (previous incarnations of Gautama Buddha. In the south-west corner of the Shwedagon Pagoda is a monument with inscriptions in Myanmar, English, French and Russian, commemorating the 1920 student revolt against the British colonialists, which marked the start of Myanmar’s drive for independence. Ahead on the left, Shwedagon’s guardian Nat, Bo Bo Gyi, with King of the Nats, Thagyamin, are encased in glass.

The Shwedagon Pagoda Rakhine Tazaung with fine wood carvings on the tiered roof is next. In the adjacent pavilion the eight and a half meter (28-foot) Buddha reclines with head pointing north indicates the Buddha’s transition into Nirvana. The Chinese Merchant’s Tazaung on the Shwedagon pagoda platform with a number of Buddha images in varying postures is next. Opposite this, under white umbrellas are the figures of Mai Lamu and Sakka (Thagyamin), the legendary parents of the founder of the Shwedagon Pagoda King Okkalapa. The landing at the top of the western staircase of the Shwedagon Pagoda brings one to the Temple of Kassapa, the third Buddha, or the West Adoration Hall. Directly opposite, across the marble inlaid walkway is the Two Pice Tazaung, named for the daily collection of two pice (coins of the lowest denomination) from Yangon Market merchants and shopkeepers. The western stairways of the Shwedagon Pagoda, with 166 steps steepest of the four, was also rebuilt with this money after the 1931 fire, as was the Temple of Kassapa Buddha which had been gutted in the same conflagration.

 The Shwedagon Pagoda planetary post for Jupiter stands just beside the Kassapa Temple. A little farther on, under a white umbrella, is a figure of King Okkalapa. The planetary post for Rahu lies in the north-west corner. Slightly to the north is a small octagonal, golden-spired pagoda, the Pagoda of the Eight Weekdays.

The 23-ton Maha Ganda Bell of the Shwedagon Pagoda, cast and donated by King Singu in 1779, is housed in a pavilion close to this pagoda. In the north-west corner of the Shwedagon Pagoda is a small shrine which contains more flower offerings than the others around it and has more devotees in attendance. This is the Wonder Working Buddha Image, reputed to perform miracles. Two Bodhi or sacred banyan trees occupy the far north-west corner, the smaller one being a cutting of the one in Bodhgaya, India, under which Gautama Buddha gained enlightenment. The Wish Fulfilling Place of the Shwedagon Pagoda, ever busy with homage-paying pilgrims, is marked by a star-shaped contour. Many supplicants frequent this place to make their wish come true.

Proceeding onwards on the Shwedagon Pagoda platform one comes to a Chinese Prayer Hall with fine woodcarvings and Chinese dragon figures. Just beside this and close to the northern entrance of the Shwedagon Pagoda is the Prayer Hall or Tazaung with Buddha’s footprint, inside a dragon guards the Buddha, represented as a prince. In front of him is the ‘chidawya’ (Buddha’s footprint) which has 108 sections, every one of them having a special imprint. Large life-size figures of Indians stand guard outside this Tazaung. The Zediyingana Society Library is the building to the south, housing more than 6,000 books on religion and Myanmar culture, the majority being rare publications. This Zediyinganis one of those charged with the responsibility to maintain the Shwedagon Pagoda and effect whatever improvements that may be required. The Sandawtwin Tazaung is between the library on its north and the Temple or Adoration Hall of Gautama Buddha, the forth Buddha. This Temple in located at the top landing of the northern staircase of the Shwedagon Pagoda. The Sandawtwin Tazaunghas underneath it, the spring where the Buddha’s eight hairs were washed before enshrinement in the pagoda.

Just past the Temple of Gautama Buddha of the Shwedagon Pagoda, stands the Planetary Post for Venus, a favorite spot for the Friday-born. Just opposite is a replica of the Mahabodi Pagoda in Bodhgaya, India, the design of which is distinctly Indian. The Kannaze Tazaung where, it is said, King Okkalapa’s prayers for relics of the Buddha, were granted, contains a Buddha image accordingly called Sutaungpyit Buddha. Lift the stone, saying, “Let this stone feel light in my hands, if my wish is to be granted.” If it feels heavy, the supplicant has failed to obtain his / her wish.

Slightly to the northeast is the Shin Izza-Gawna Tazaung (Monk Goat-Bull’s Pavilion), the Buddha inside having eyes of unequal sizes. It is in honor of an eleven century ‘zawgyi ‘(alchemist) who succeeded in his quest for the Philosopher’s stone (mythical substance believed capable of turning base metal to gold or silver), but alas, was forced to put his eyes out because his long and expensive alchemistic experiments, sponsored by the king, had reduced the country to penury and he still had not discovered the stone.

He was successful shortly after losing his eyes and sent for a pair of either goat’s or bullock’s eyes but unfortunately only one goat’s and one bullock’s eye were obtainable, so with the aid of the Philosopher’s Stone he restored his sight with the different eyes and became known as Monk Goat-Bull.

Immediately to the north is the elder Brother or Naungdawgyi Pagoda, erected on the spot where was originally kept the eight hairs of the Buddha brought over by the merchant-brothers Tapussa and Bhallika. Reportedly built by King Okkalapa and later enlarged by King Bayinnaung. This golden stupa is a smaller replica of the Shwedagon Pagoda stupa. Here, woman are barred from climbing onto the platform. The 42-ton Maha Tissada Bell donated by King Thayawaddy in 1841 is housed in a spired and embellished pavilion close by. The Planetary Post for the Sun is located at the northeast corner of the main Shwedagon Pagoda stupa. Close to the Naungdawgyi Pagoda, right smack in the northeastern corner is the Dhammazedi inscription dating back to 1485, telling the story of the Shwedagon Pagoda in three languages, Pail, Mon and Myanmar. Walking onwards, one reaches the temple of the Kakusandha Buddha, opposite the eastern stairway of the Shwedagon Pagoda.

The Shwedagon Pagoda Eastern Adoration hall is regarded as the most ornate on the Shwedagon Pagoda platform. The main figure of Kakusandha, the first Buddha and three others in this temple, have their right palms turned upward in a posture which is not the usual one. The Tawa Gu Buddha occupies a niche on the upper terrace of the main stupa, behind the Kakusandha Temple. This statue has a reputation of being able to perform miracles and only men are allowed to climb onto the upper terrace for a fee. Here on the upper terrace, the visitor will encounter highly devout Buddhists in deep meditation.

The Planetary Post for the Moon is beside the Kakusandha Temple. The moon, in Myanmar astrology, is recognized as one of the eight planets. Across the Shwedagon Pagoda platform, adjacent to the east stairway of the Shwedagon Pagoda landing is the U Nyo Tazaung with wood carved panels depicting events in the life of Gautama Buddha. A Hamsa Tagundaing or prayer pillar stands close to the southeast corner of the of the Shwedagon Pagoda platform with a ‘hintha’ bird (mythological bird, also called hamsa). These prayer pillars are believed to bring fortune to the founders. Another Bodhi tree grown from a cutting of the original one in Bodhagaya, stands at the far southeast corner of the Shwedagon Pagoda. On a clear day, a good view of Yangon and over the Yangon River towards Thanlyin can be seen from this point. Also some museums and some more libraries are situated on the Shwedagon Pagoda Platform.

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