The Myanmar Himalayas are perfect
for adventure tours/ trekking.
It is a particular part of the famous
mountains
because almost no foreigners until now have been there, with the exception
of some British adventurers during
colonial times. Myanmar Himalayas
are for the people who have
been everywhere, seen
everything but want to have a controlled risk about new frontiers, not
ending up with some mad people like in the many other countries when
leaving the beaten tracks.
Mt. Hkakabo Razi (picture below), Myanmar’s
and South East Asia’s highest peak at 5,900
meters, is located in the northern most
reaches of Kachin State. The mountain was
conquered for the first time in 1997 by a
team of Japanese and Myanmar climbers. The
closest town is Putao, a small, quiet place,
surrounded by snow-capped mountains
stretching from Tibet in the north-west.
Snow caped Himalayan mountain
ranges with plenty of snow all year long,
glaciers and pristine environment, no cable
cars, no roads, nothing gives
disturbance to mother nature. There
are talks with some Thai investors to open a
ski resort for winter fun all year round,
but nothing happen yet, its probable better
when it stays like this.
The higher region is populated with pine,
hemlock and silver fir mixed with some
larch. From 2,700 metres to 3,700 metres
almost pure conifer forests cover the
slopes. There is a abundance of hardwoods:
oak, maple, birch, walnut, chestnut as well
as rhododendron and others, but only at
regions not accessible by roads, if a region
is accessible all trees are immediately cut
be Chinese and local poachers.
Steep fields in the valleys around are
cultivated.
There are gardens of hill rice,
maize and millet within patches of colocasia,
mixed with cereal crops, cucumbers, gourds
and huge marrows.Only slopes facing south to west can be
cultivated and the yield is rather poor.
Fences have been erected to keep deer, pigs,
monkeys and others animals out of the
fields.
Putao and the Myanmar Himalayas
The plain of Putao, closely surrounded
on three sides by high mountains which pour their innumerable streams into
this central sump, is not a pleasant place in summer. The rainfall for six
months averages
150 in., the humidity rarely falls below
75 per cent saturation, and the average maximum temperature for the same
period is about 90 F.
But the fine winters and superb
views of the mountains, glazed with snow, are some compensation for the many
discomforts of the rainy season.
The rain-washed
air is clear as crystal and the mountains looked
very close. Away to the west, the ranges
which separate the Mali Hka from the Dihang, a
tributary of the Brahmaputra, rise abruptly from
the edge of the plain, so near that they mask
the 12,000 foot peaks just behind them.
Further north,
the Irrawaddy or Ayeyarwady-Brahmaputra divide
grows higher, Noi Madive, a peak almost due
north and 30 miles distant, rising to over
15,000 feet; and another 30 miles north of Noi
Madive is the Diphuk Pass, one of three or four
passes over the Irrawaddy-or Ayeyarwady Lohit
divide in 120 miles. Ten miles north-cast of the
Diphuk Pass is the snow peak Ka Karpo Razi,
19,269 feet, the highest mountain in Myanmar and
south-east Asia;
A little south of
the Shingrup Hkyet (pass) over the main range
can be seen. In winter these mountains
appear as a wide arc of snow.
But in July it
gets very hot with a terrific thunderstorms over
the hills. As rivers go in south-east Asia,
and particularly as compared with the rivers on
either side of it, namely the Brahmaputra to the
west, the Salween and Mekong to the east, the
Irrawaddy is a rather small, or at least a short
river. It is barely 1500 miles in length,
whereas the Brahmaputra is over 2500 miles, the
Mekong about the same and the Salween not less
than 2000 miles.
The snow in the
Myanmar Himalayas chills the air flowing in
from the plains and from the sea and adds still
more rain and snow. In the mountains heavy
precipitation is frequent, long before the
monsoon breaks in central Myanmar.
In the Myanmar
Himalayas large snow patches lying unmelted
throughout the summer, while above 15,000
feet there is many permanent snow, the last
remnants of glaciers which once covered almost
the whole of the country north of latitude 26°.
These snow patches are no longer considered as
glaciers only because they have so far shrunk
that the weight of snow is not sufficient to
form ice. But though motionless, they are
relatively as permanent as glaciers.
There is a more
curious reason for the persistence of snow beds
at low altitudes, sometimes so low as 10,000
feet, throughout the summer, in the Myanmar
Himalayas.
The mountains at
the headwaters of the Irrawaddy or Ayeyarwady
are exceedingly steep, alpine valleys like
the Scinghku and its tributaries exceedingly
narrow and deep. As a result, quite early in the
year, the snow begins to avalanche down their
sides and pile up in immense mounds, blocking
the streams, which presently tunnel beneath the
beds. Some of these avalanche beds cover several
acres, and sunk deep in the ravines never get an
hour's sunshine. Further protection is afforded
by a layer of earth and stones, dust and
vegetable debris which rapidly accumulates over
the surface, some of it washed down the alluvial
fans, but much of it blown by the wind;
eventually it may reach a thickness of several
inches.
The peaks around
Mt. Hkakabo Razi are not the only
snow peaks in northern Myanmar. The whole length
of the Salween Irrawaddy divide for some 200
miles north of latitude 26° is sprinkled with
snow peaks. Many small glaciers amongst which
its four major streams rise.
This then seems
to be the true explanation of the great summer
rise of the Irrawaddy or Ayeyarwady: heavy
precipitation in the mountains throughout the
year, together with a locking up of a vast
quantity of water during half the year.
Exactly why
northern Myanmar gets so much rain and snow,
especially during the winter month, is not very
clear; but we must remember that this region is
not very remote from the sea. Putao is about 600
miles away of the Bay of Bengal, within 1000
miles of the Gulf of Thailand and within 700
miles of the Gulf of Tongking. If we take Putao
as centre, and with a thousand-mile radius
describe an arc from the east coast of India to
the south coast of China, it will include nearly
half the Bay of Bengal and the entire Gulf of
Tongking, just touching the Gulf of Thailand a
sea area larger than the whole of Myanmar.
In no other
region in the world is perpetual turbulence and
a continuous passing of great air currents more
likely than over the network of deep
sub-tropical valleys and snow-covered peaks of
the Myanmar Himalayas; and the peculiar
formation of the country itself contributes to
their birth, maintenance and evolution. It is
possible that owing to the continuous
destruction of forest by the hill tribes and
recently by Chinese poachers with big money to
destribute , with consequent loss of soil,
quicker run off, and lack of roots to take up
water, the Irrawaddy is gradually rising to
greater flood heights in less time than
formerly.
As for the snow
line in the Myanmar Himalayas, the glaciers
have long been in retreat, and would appear to
be still retreating, while the 'permanent' snow
beds may be decreasing in size. If there is a
general amelioration of climate, whether due to
warming up or to a smaller precipitation, the
snow line will rise and snow melt be reduced.
The
Hkamti plain is dotted with a number of
small Shan villages each with its
rice fields. The largest is Putao
itself, here and there, sometimes
from the midst of the paddy fields,
clusters of crumbling pagodas rise., and
there are unpretentious monasteries in
the villages where a few yellow-robed
monks with shorn pates perform the rites
of the Buddhist religion. The sweet
tones of the gongs ring out across the
plain at all hours.
Three
distinct types of vegetation are met
with, namely, forest, occupying the
terraces and drier ground; swamp,
covering much of the plain to the north
too; The forest is composed of the same
trees met with at similar altitudes --
up to 3000 feet, more or less.
There are
stretches of magnificent forest to the
east, between Putao and the Mali Hka,
which bounds the plain on that side.
Near villages, much of it has been
reduced to a dense growth of scrub and
fern by cutting for firewood. Amongst a
great variety of trees are Quercus
semiserrala, Altingia excelsa,
Pterospermum (P. semisaggitalum),
Sarcinia, Magnolia, various Laurels,
figs, Elaeocarpus, Sterculia and a tree
with narrow oblong leaves over a foot in
length, probably a species of
Goniothalamus.
Wide
stretches of artificial sward occur near
Putao and elsewhere on the banks of
the many small streams which wriggle
across the plain. A small crimson
flowered orchid (Spiranthes) and a
creeping Lysimachia with golden-yellow
flowers, very like the British L.
Nummularia or money-wort, grow in the
turf. A variety of plants grow in the
villages and in Shan gardens, many of
them flowering gaily in the cold
weather. Very striking then are the
hedges of sunflower..
The people in the valleys catch fish in
thorn-lined conical fish traps, with nets or
harpoon. They also eat barking deer, gooral,
serow, pheasants and monkeys. When these
food sources are scarce, the valley
population will eat anything from snails and
frogs, to lizards, snakes and wasp grubs.
Cold weather mist hangs over the peaceful
and serene surroundings almost 6 months of
the year.
Flowing streams and rivulets,
straw-roofed houses and fences of pebbles
and creek stones provide a pleasant,
pastoral contrast to the scenes and sights
of Yangon.
Peoples of the Rawan, Lisu, Khamti-Shan,
Jingphaw and Kachin are represented in the
region.
Simple, direct, hard working and
hospitable, they make a living in the lower
areas by growing paddy, fruits, roots and
medical plants. Grape fruit, American lime,
Washington navel fruit, varieties of peaches
and oranges grow.
Ginseng and musk are plentiful.
Many species
of orchid and other exotic flora and fauna
such as musk deer, takin and flying squirrel
are native to this region.